I learned something about the summer time in Maui today. The waves can be fairly small (on the west side). This would have been good to scope out before grabbing my board yesterday because getting a 5'5 Fish was a joke for me at Goofy Foot this morning ha! I couldn't catch anything and after 2 years without touching a surfboard MAN DO MY SHOULDERS KILL RIGHT NOW. I am legit laying down in bed typing this article and my forearms are even cramping. I got up once - barely. I'm returning my board tomorrow and for this month will be likely using a longboard bought at COSTCO just to goof around on. I just have this massive vision for my perfect board - which I thought I got..but easily moving on from. Look at this beauty. What a dream. She's not mine, not even close. Just throwing it out there GALLANT & JONES I would be very excited if you could make me a custom board! I've put my intentions out there and one day (in the near future I will find my match!)
Today started out early for us again. 5:30 AM is what I try to do every morning. I wake up, have a vegan shake with a banana mixed in and chug about a half - to a whole litre of water.
** SIDE NOTE HERE: I am doing a 4 month challenge to completely rip my body up so I am traveling with the complete intention to be healthy, vibrant and in the flow. That being said, I'm going to share what I do here and there and would love to connect if you have any questions!
We grabbed my board and were off to Goofy Foot in Lahaina, Maui. The waves as I mentioned were tiny! It's been ages for me. You should know as well the bed of the ocean is covered in coral - not sharp but rocky so fall flat ! I cut myself walking in today so water shoes might be a good option if you can't remember to keep your feet off the ground.
I won't lie I was PRETTY frustrated with my board and finding out all of these things (small waves, coral etc) Costa Rica was such a nice treat to face plant into deep ocean without the risk of hurting myself and the comfort of my duck dives on a short board. LONG BOARDING is SO much fun but god I hate getting past big waves. If I screw up passing through the wave (which has happened multiple times) I end up getting dragged out helplessly by my ankle.
Went to the shop to switch my board and headed to Grandma's off the Highway. It was even worse for me - smaller waves. I LEARNED MY LESSON. Off to Costco tomorrow haha. Get me a freaking long board asap to goof around with!
Headed back and had some veggies, avocado and poke. Then I went and met up with a surfer from Argentina who is trying to sell his board - one day he will see this for sure and sorry to say (I'm not taking the board :S) I so appreciate you taking the time to bring it over to Kihei though! We had a nice chat and all to say as to why I'm sharing this story is that he didn't take money in passing me the board. He just said - "If you love it, we'll meet up and you can pay but if you don't then just bring it back."... "As long as you don't leave Maui with the board there are no issues." ALOHA! Love just pure trust I have been so impressed by the vibe here it's insane. First day it was the person working at the Telus Booth who lent me an iPhone with a sim card in it (I bought my package and everything) but when loading my new sim to my own phone, we realized my cell was locked! *Really didn't remember that. Just crazy amounts of trust here. I'm just suppose to bring the cell and surf board back when I'm ready essentially. Amazing. This is what it's all about.
Did a bit of work at Starbucks, had a few calls and a beautiful chat with some of my teammates on ZOOM. Zipped back home and went for a run, did a circuit and had some white rice, black beans, brussel sprout salad with a little bit of hummus and salsa on the side. Filled me right up I couldn't even finish it!